Headset Overhaul:

A step by step guide to repairing/replacing your headset.

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Headset anatomy:

The headset is composed of two sets of metal cups that attaches the fork to the frame of the bicycle. Inside the metal cups are a set of metal ball or pin bearings that run along the entire diameter of the cups. The bearings are either loose or in a metal cartridge. The bearings are usually lubricated with a thick grease.

There are two general types of headsets: Threaded and threadless. Let's take a look at each and the related parts that make up part of the bikes steering system.

Threaded: A threaded headset uses a lockring and a threaded upper headset cap (called a "race") which screws on to the steertube of a fork (see photo below). The stem then inserts into the steertube and is compressed into the steertube via a compression bolt. The steertube for a threaded fork does not extend beyond the lockring of the headset.

Threadless: A threadless headset does not use a lockring or a threaded upper race. In fact, the upper race of the headset slips right onto the steertube and is held down by the stem and a top cap. Unlike the stem for the threaded headset, the stem for a threadless system slips on to the steertube and is clamped in place. The steertube on a threadless fork has no threading (hence the name threadless), is longer and extends way beyond the top of the headset race compared to a threaded steertube. (See photo below)

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Signs you need a headset overhaul:

Here are a few signs to signal that you need to perform a headset overhaul:

- Sluggish or tight steering.

- Grinding noise when turning the handlebar.

- Steering feels notched (commonly known as "indexed").

- Headset feels loose or wiggles.

- You've ridden your bike through deep water (mountain bike, of course).

- You see visible damage to the headset.

- Your bike has been sitting out, exposed to the elements for a significant amount of time (6 months to a year).

- Anytime your bike has been involved in a major crash. You'll not only check your headset, but all your major components as well as the frame and fork.

- You've been riding for a year and your bike feels fine. Huh? No it's not a mistake. A headset overhaul should be performed every year as part of your normal bike maintenance. ______________________________________________________________________________

Tools Needed:

You'll need the following tools as seen in the photo below to do a headset overhaul:

- Headset cup removal tool: This tool (shown in the photo above between the screwdriver and the mallet) allows the easy removal of the upper and lower cups that are pressed on to your frame's headtube. If you do not have a headset cup removal tool, you can substitute a large, flathead (standard) screwdriver. But I highly recommend this tool as it will make your job alot easier.

- Rubber Mallet: For use to strike the headset cup removal tool or screwdriver. Do not substitute a metal hammer as this will cause unnecessary damage to your tools and your bike. A rubber mallet absorbs a lot of the shock caused during blunt strikes unlike a regular hammer which transmits it directly to the object being struck, thus passing the vibration to the bike. This will result in damage to your frame in the form of paint damage or dents.

- Allen Wrenches: You'll need these for loosening/tightening your stem (all) and top cap (threadless only).

- Crown Race Setting Toolset (optional): This tool is used to evenly set the lower crown race of your headset to your fork crown. Comes in handy especially if the thickness of the steertube where it meets the fork crown is slightly large for the crown race to slip in freely. The tool slips over the steertube and sits on top of the crown race. The crown race is then pushed into place by forcefully driving the tool down directly or using a rubber mallet to strike the head of the tool.

If you don't have this tool, you can substitute your screwdriver and hammer the crown race onto the fork crown. When using a screwdriver, use great care that you do not damage the steertube and the crown races' bearing surface, since that will affect steering smoothness. Additionally, you must ensure that you hammer down the crown race evenly. Use this technique only as a last resort!!!! If in doubt, bring your fork and crown race to a competent bike shop.

- Degreaser/cleaner: Use a quality degreaser or cleaner to break up old, caked on grease on your bearings and headset cups.

- Heavy-duty Grease/Gear oil: You'll need to replace the old grease with new grease to complete your headset overhaul. Use a fairly thick grease such as multi-purpose grease to lube the bearings. The thick grease is also helpful for holding loose bearings on headsets that do not have cartridge bearing assemblies.

- Headset Press (optional): A headset press (pictured below) makes reattaching your headset cups to your frame's headtube a snap. Just like a table vise, the headset press, "presses" the headset cups back to your headtube securely and evenly. But these particular tools are very pricey. If you don't have one of these tools, you can use your rubber mallet to hammer the cups back into place. When using a rubber mallet, make sure that you strike the headset cups evenly, so that they will seat onto the headtube evenly. Additionally use "lighter" taps versus a large strike to prevent damage to the headset and the headtube. Use this technique with great care!!!! If in doubt, bring your frame and headset cups to a competent bike shop.

- Bike Repair Stand: This is what I call a "highly recommended" option. A repair stand will greatly enhance ANY repairs you do for your bike, not just headset overhaul. It's like having an extra pair of hands to help you. If you can afford to buy one, I would recommend you get one, especially if you plan on doing more of your own bike maintenance.

- Headset Lockring Wrench (threaded only): A headset lockring wrench is required to undo the headset lockring. You can substitute a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench if you don't have a headset lockring wrench.

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Removing your headset:

The first thing you must do before you perform a headset overhaul is to secure your bike on a bicycle repair stand (if you have one). Open your front brake quick release or remove brake pads to facilitate easy wheel removal (see photo below).

Loosen the quick release levers or hub bolts and remove the front wheel on your bike. (See "wheel removal" for more information on this.)

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For threadless headsets: Loosen and remove the top cap using the appropriate size allen wrench. Most threadless stems clamp on to the fork steertube using two allen bolts. Loosen one bolt. (see photos below)

Now grab one of the fork legs and loosen the other bolt. This is important as the fork may fall off once the second bolt is removed, causing damage to the fork or worse, your foot! (See photos below)

If the fork doesn't fall off, gently grasp the stem (while still holding the fork with the other hand) and pull the stem off the steertube. Place the fork and handlebar/stem assembly away from the headset. Brake and shifter cables will obviously still be attached, so you are limited to where you can place them unless you undo the cables (not recommended, unless you don't mind the extra work).

As seen in the photos below, since I did not undo the brake and shifter cables, I wrapped a cloth around the bike frame's down tube and slipped the fork on top keeping it out of the way during the headset overhaul. Then I place the handlebar assembly partially on top of the frame and the clamp head of my work stand. You can use a cloth rag and temporarily tie the fork and handlebar assembly down so they won't fall off and cause any damage.

For threaded headsets: Grasp the stem with one hand and loosen the spanner bolt located at the top of the stem using an allen wrench or other appropriate wrench. Once loosened, the stem will literally "drop" down, which is the reason you are grasping it already to prevent this from happening. Pull the stem and handlebar assembly off the fork and place it away from the headset (just like the threadless). Again, brake and shifter cables will obviously still be attached, so you are limited to where you can place them unless you undo the cables (not recommended, unless you don't mind the extra work). If possible, temporarily tie the handlebar assembly down using a cloth rag so it won't fall off and cause any damage to you or your bike.

Loosen the threaded headset lockring using appropriate wrench and remove. Pull off any spacers and place to the side along with the lockring. You can now unscrew the upper headset race of the headset. While loosening the top headset race, the fork will also become loosened, so make sure your other hand is holding on to the fork.

BE CAREFUL! Regardless if you're working on a threaded or threadless headset, be careful that you don't lose ANY parts, especially the ball bearings. Although all modern headsets now have cartridge bearings, older headset still use loose ball bearings. Even cartridge bearing can fall apart, especially if they are damaged.

Take your time when you're doing a headset overhaul to prevent losing any parts, particularly bearings. If you have a painters drop cloth or an old towel, place it underneath the headset while performing your headset overhaul, to help catch any loose parts that may fall off the bike. Gather any small parts and place them in a small tray or cup until you are ready to repair or reinstall them. If you lose any parts, go to a bike shop and replace the missing part. Don't try and reinstall your headset with missing bearings, rings, etc. Finish the headset overhaul the right way and you'll have miles of worry free riding. ______________________________________________________________________________

Removing the bearing cups:

BE ADVISED: This is an OPTIONAL procedure. You do NOT have to remove the bearing cups from the frame if you are only doing an overhaul (cleaning and relubing). You can skip this step and clean the bearing cups while still attached on the frame. Remove the bearing cups ONLY if you are replacing the entire unit with a new headset.

Once you have removed the handlebars, stem, fork, upper/lower races, rings and bearings, you are now ready to remove the bearing cups that are pressed onto the frame headtube. If you have a headset cup removal tool, insert the tool thru the bottom of the headtube and pull up until you hear it snap in.

When you hear it snap in, push the tool down until it stops. The tool is now resting on the inner lip of the lower bearing cup. While holding on to the tool, take your rubber mallet and strike the head of the headset cup removal tool until the cup comes undone. Watch your thumbs! The cup should pop right off after a few strikes. Keep your painters cloth or towel underneath to catch the cup. Once removed, you can flip your frame upside down and repeat this process to remove the upper bearing cup.

If you don't have a headset cup removal tool, use a large flathead (standard) screwdriver and place either on top of the inner lip or on the outside of the headset and hammer the cups off using your rubber mallet (as shown below) using careful, but deliberate, strikes. Use great care when using this technique, as this may cause damage to your headsets surface or your frames paint. If possible, place a thick rag or an old innertube between the headset and the tip of the screwdriver.

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Checking and cleaning your headset:

Part of the headset overhaul involves checking and cleaning all headset parts, particularly the bearing surfaces and bearings. Use a heavy duty degreaser and liberally spray your components to remove any old grease. Allow the parts to soak for a few minutes. Dry thoroughly using a clean dry cloth.

Check the bearing surfaces of the cups and races by running your fingers on the surfaces. Look for irregularities and cracks. Check the bearings or bearing cartridges. Are they bent or are the bearing popping loose off the cartridges? Do the bearings appear out-of-round or have a rough/cracked surface?

If you find any issues, replace the entire headset unit. It is much more beneficial, not to mention cost effective to install a new headset then to attempt to repair an old one. ______________________________________________________________________________

Reassembly of your headset:

Once you have determined that your headset is still in good condition, then it's time to put it back together. Let's start with the headset bearing cups. In order for your bike to steer properly, it is important to seat the headset bearing cups back properly onto the headtube of your frame. The most effective way to reseat your bearing cups is to use a headset press. However, not everyone has a headset press, so we will show you two different methods to reseat your bearing cups.

Reinstallation with a headset press:

If you are fortunate enough to have a headset press, then your headset overhaul is all downhill from here. First place the upper bearing cup on the top part of the headtube. Remove the bottom press of your headset press and insert the press from the top of the upper bearing cup and seat it right on the cup. (see below)

Insert the lower bearing cup into place and at the same time replace the bottom part of the headset press back into position directly under the lower bearing cup. Tighten the press until both ends come in contact with the bearing cups, then stop. DO NOT PROCEED TO TIGHTEN! (see below)

Check and make sure that both ends are properly seated onto the bearing cups, then take one hand, grasp the bottom of the headset press and use the other hand to SLOWLY turn the upper part of the headset press. Make sure and watch that both cups compress into the headset. If only one cup seats into the headtube all the way, then remove your headset press and flip it upside down and repeat the process until both cups are pressed in properly.

Reinstallation without a headset press:

If you do not have a headset press, all is not lost. You can still reinstall the bearing cups using a rubber mallet, but this method requires patience and care in order not to damage your frame and your headset. So read these instruction thoroughly before you start.

BE ADVISED: Do this method at your own risk. It is highly recommended that you use a headset press or take the frame to a bike shop. We are not responsible for any damage to your bike or headset or injury that may occur to you by following this method. This is merely another method that is being presented to you as an alternative for reinstalling your headset. This method does work and works well if done carefully and properly. But again, use good judgement and care when using this method.

You can start at either end, but make sure your install the right cup in the right end (did that make sense? LOL!). First place your appropriate bearing cup on the frame. Then using your mallet, LIGHTLY but with deliberate, even strikes, hammer the cups into place. You can even place a cloth between the cup and the mallet for added protection, but we don't recommend doing this since it may block your view of the cup. You want to be able to see if the cup seats evenly.

Make sure your blows are centered onto the entire cup. DO NOT hammer in a circular pattern unless it is to correct an uneven cup. Additionally, DO NOT hammer rapidly as if you were hitting a nail. SLOW STRIKES ARE THE KEY to properly seating the headset using this method.

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Reinstalling the crown race:

The crown race is the piece of the headset that goes right onto the steertube and seats right on top of the fork crown. Some crown races just slide right into place, but others must be pressed into position (this will be obvious to you when you see a gap between your crown race and your fork crown). Just like the headset cups, there is a tool specifically designed to set your crown race onto your fork. This tool is called appropriately a "crown race setting toolset" (we'll refer to it as a "crown race tool" in this section. But if you don't own this tool, you can still reintall the crown race using tools you already have. Let's take a look at both.

Reinstalling using a crown race setting tool:

First, find a hard, flat surface (such as a work bench or a cement floor). Do NOT use your kitchen table, countertops, wood floors, linoleum floors or anything else that you don't want to damage. Using one hand, hold your fork by one of the legs upright on top of a thick rag or other durable scrap material (old floor mat/rug, used innertube, etc.) . Make sure the surface is level. If you have a piece of scrap wood or a plastic wheel insert (used for shipping frames. Ask your bike shop if they have one they can give you.) that you can wedge between the fork legs, then do so.

Place the crown race onto the steertube as far as it will go down. Select the appropriately sized setting tool and place on top of the crown race. Next insert the large metal tube part of your crown race tool onto the steertube and place on top of the setting tool. Strike the top of the tube with your rubber mallet or, if that is ineffective, use the tube itself and forcefully shove the tube down onto the setting tool until the crown race seats evenly onto the top of the fork crown.

Reinstalling without a crown race setting tool:

Follow the same steps as above with the exception of the use of the setting tool. In its place, you will use your mallet and a large flathead screwdriver.

BE ADVISED: Do this method at your own risk. It is highly recommended that you use a crown race setting tool or take the fork to a bike shop. We are not responsible for any damage to your bike or headset or injury that may occur to you by following this method. This is merely another method that is being presented to you as an alternative for reinstalling your headset. This method does work and works well if done carefully and properly. But again, use good judgement and care when using this method.

Place the tip of the screwdriver at the top of the crown race, closest to the steertube. Do NOT place on the bearing surface or you risk damaging the race. Then using your mallet, LIGHTLY but with deliberate, even strikes, hammer the top of the screwdriver, which in turn, sets the crown race into place (it rhymes!). You can even place a cloth between the crown race and the screwdriver for added protection, but we don't recommend doing this since it may block your view of the cup. You want to be able to see if the crown race seats evenly.

Make sure your blows are centered onto the entire cup. Hammer in a "star" pattern to correct an uneven crown. Additionally, DO NOT hammer rapidly as if you were hitting a nail. SLOW STRIKES ARE THE KEY to properly seating the crown race using this method.

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Puttin' it back together

Now that the headset cups and the crown race are in place, it's time to put the rest of the parts back in. So let's look at the order we need to assemble the parts to make our headset overhaul a success.

The first thing that we need to add is a lubricant for our bearings to roll smoothly in the headset. Apply a thin layer of heavy duty grease/gear oil on the bearing cups.

Then insert your bearings. Apply a second layer over the bearings for additional lubrication and to hold the bearings in place. Repeat this step on the opposite bearing cup.

Insert your bearing seals on the crown races and cups.

Reinstall the top headset cap.

Reinsert your fork and then install the headset cap compression ring while pushing the fork up as far as you can. If servicing a threaded headset, you can skip the compression ring part.

Add spacers as necessary.

For threadless headsets, install your stem and tighten slightly.....just enough to hold the fork in place.

Reinstall your top cap and tighten. Tighten the top cap down just enough where the fork and/or the headset will not wiggle. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN or you may not be able to steer your bike properly or worse, cause damage to your headset. Once properly tightened, you can now tighten the stem bolts.

For threaded headsets, reinstall your lockring first and tighten both the lock ring and top headset cap before installing your stem. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN or you may not be able to steer your bike properly or worse, cause damage to your headset. Once properly tightened, install your stem at the appropriate height and tighten the spanner bolt.

For both threadless and threaded headsets: MAKE SURE THAT YOUR HANDLEBAR AND STEM ARE ALIGNED WITH YOUR FRONT WHEEL BEFORE TIGHTENING THEM DOWN.

Test your headset by wiggling the handlebar back and forth. Reinstall your front wheel, place the bike on the ground and check again by holding the front brake close and pushing/pulling the bike to see if the headset is secure.

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Congratulations! You have just completed a headset overhaul. Time to put your helmet on and go for a ride!

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